July 19 update from Blantyre - just arrived!!

July 19, 2011 - Day 2 in the office at THP Malawi, after arriving on Saturday. 



Malawian woman at the market carrying baby



I have a desk in Rowlands' office (Rowlands Kaotcha is the Country Director for Malawi), and am feeling very special! There was quite a bit of curiosity about my arrival. The office is on the second floor in Limbe, a more commercial area of Blantyre than where I live. (Naturally there is no lift, and you all know how much I now love stairs, especially as these would never meet the building regulations guidelines on height and width of each step!!) I have a driver to pick me up and take me home every day in one of the THP vehicles (about 15-20 mins), as well as take me anywhere I need to go, or go fetch things for me. I have met most of the staff, and I am thankful that English is the official language in the office, although most speak their native language between themselves. Even the three drivers I have met so far speak pretty good English! I sense at this stage there is a bit of suspicion as to  my 'real' purpose, I think some suspect I might be a spy from HQ! They are a young and very committed and passionate team, all who love working for Rowlands and also feel deeply about the sector they are working in. 

Rowlands and I were planning to visit 2 Epicentres today, however our plans were dashed when no diesel could be found. The country in currently gripped by fuel shortages, one symptom of a very complicated political situation that I cant begin to describe, suffice to say that things seem to be very much on a downhill slide. The President was last year voted in for a second five year term, and things seem to have taken a real downturn. A significant factor has been significantly reduced revenue from Tobacco production, previously a major export product and source of valuable foreign exchange.

An Epicentre is the core of the THP approach, where between 5-15 villages within a 10km radius are joined together to become a community to help themselves out of poverty. There are 8 Epicentres in Malawi, one is brand new, and just about to be officially inaugurated, at this stage it is likely that that will be by the President (although of course that could change at any moment). We are busy planning for the inauguration ceremony, plus an Investors visit (which includes the first visit by the global CEO) in about a month, so I am helping with the preparation and rehearsal of the presentations, and also capturing good material to be included. The Investors tour involves both Epicentre tours (where people who have made financial contributions to an Epicentre can see firsthand the difference they are making), as well as an extensive briefing back in the office about the work THP are doing. 

We had a Monday morning meeting yesterday, one of the big things on the agenda is a major demonstration to be held on Wednesday. It is a political demonstration against the President, the fuel crisis and many other problems that are being attributed to President Bingu wa Mutharika. Rowlands thinks things might get ugly, so we are talking about whether to close the office or not, he is afraid of people getting caught up in any crossfire. We have decided to make it business as usual, however if any of the staff feel it is unsafe for them to get to work, then they stay home. A bit different from the old Russell Reynolds Monday morning meetings!! 

My accommodation is at one of the local backpackers hostels. Most of the other volunteers are medical students who are doing an exchange at the local hospital. Mostly a mixture of Brits, Dutch and a few Americans, in the 22-28 age group (not totally silly thank goodness!). My 'flat' as it is referred to has a bedroom and living room, as well as a kitchenette and bathroom. I have stunning views of the local mountain ranges; Malawi is a stunningly beautiful country.  



Blantyre Market



After stocking up on supplies yesterday I went home to cook my first meal, only to find that the microwave (one of my three appliances, along with a single electrical hotplate and kettle) has a South African plug, which cant be connected to the electricity, a challenge not even I was able to overcome! Luckily I have also sourced a few good takeaways who deliver free of charge (burger and pizza joints), so I will be well fed. The local Blantyre market is a hive of activity, and a white 50yr old woman certainly stands out in the crowd! I shopped to wolf whistles and calls of "Mama come over here!!” while I bought my fruit and veg. I might have to revert to the local ShopRite supermarket where the produce is not nearly as good, but shopping will be a tad more pleasant! 

Weather here is lovely, most days we have a max in the mid 20's, although mornings and evenings are quite cool. The locals are moaning about how cold it is, and yesterday several of the staff were wearing woolen gloves in the office with their business suits. Apparently by August things start to heat up, with the rainy season starting around November, and lasting till May.